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While some surprises are nice when travelling, it's important to be as well prepared as possible.

Luckily, thanks to the amazing community on a well-known hospitality website (also illegal in Iran), we were rescued by some locals who let us crash in their sitting room whilst we came up with a plan.

We snacked on pistachios, offered to us by our chatterbox driver and began the long journey south, switching rides often and passing towering snow-clad peaks, lush forests, scorched wastelands and rocky outcrops…

She had to leave, of course, and I had plans to check out Iranian Kurdistan. We parted ways, unsure if we would see each other again.